Winning ways at Spriggs Alley (From Ealing Times)

Winning ways at Spriggs Alley

11:53am Thursday 1st December 2005 in Food and Drink

Sandra Carter ventures into the back of beyond in the footsteps of fans of an award-winning restaurant.

THE name always makes me smile: Spriggs Alley. Who would live at Spriggs Alley? Some kind of elf or hobbit or magical beastie?

In fact, this tucked-away hamlet on a tiny windy lane between Radnage and Chinnor is the home of Sir Charles Napier or rather, The Sir Charles Napier.

Was it a stupid idea to try to turn a little country pub out here into an upmarket restaurant?

Not a bit. This was a destination gastro-pub before the term was ever invented.

For the past 34 years it's had celebs rolling up in their Rolls or landing by helicopter on the restaurant's helipad, as well as a loyal following of local and London fans. The Sir Charles Napier has just won a place in the 2006 AA Restaurant Guide for the 26th year in succession. It was also named its Oxfordshire Restaurant of the Year.

The Sir Charles Napier can almost be claimed as a son of Buckinghamshire, too, as it lies just 100m beyond the county border.

There are lots of reasons to persuade people to dig out the road map. The interior is a unique blend of antique bits and bobs alongside charming animal sculptures by owner Julie Griffiths' partner, Michael Cooper. The wine cellar is extraordinarily diverse, with modestly priced house wines alongside special tipples costing you hundreds.

So what about the food? It's hard not to go over the top in praise. One secret of its success is that the cuisine has moved with the times. For years they had French chefs producing classic fare. Now Richard Burkert is creating menus that are contemporary British with a touch of adventure.

It's a bit of an adventure just perusing the menu. Starters (from £6.75) include intriguing dishes such as red mullet with aubergine, clams and tomato salsa. I chose salmon and shrimp ravioli with baby gem lettuce and caviar cream. It was splendid with a gorgeous fluffy, creamy sauce speckled with caviar.

My partner's quail and leek mille feuille with a thyme cream was, by contrast, rich and robust, the quail a none too easy bird to cook handled with skill.

For main course, cod fillet (£18.50) sounds plain enough, but here it was full of surprises: its artichoke and cep fricasse with red wine, lemon and thyme sauce was flavoursome but delicate enough not to detract from the fresh and flaky fish.

Saddle of venison (£17.50) was pretty amazing. It was cleverly cooked to be tender with the centre still pink. The parsnip mash continued the English theme, with a tasty fondant potato adding a nod across the Channel. But the sauce... Chilli and chocolate are becoming a bit of a fad, but this sauce of chilli, chocolate, pine nuts and sultanas worked brilliantly for my tastebuds, the sauce so very dark and intense, the chilli just a hint of heat adding a deep rich note. Gorgeous.

Puddings (£6.75) continue the tradition with a twist' theme. We chose white peach soup with champagne sorbet, which was very light, very fruity, very much enjoyed. Our other choice was a delicious prune and armagnac parfait with roasted figs and sherry vinegar: the perfect reminder that the approach of winter does have some good points going for it.