The White Oak - Reviewed (From Ealing Times)

The White Oak - Reviewed

10:28am Friday 13th March 2009 in

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The credit crunch had obviously not hit the people of Cookham yet. The night my husband and I visited The White Oak nearly every table was taken - and that was on a drab Thursday evening. There were couples, foursomes and groups all enjoying the hospitality of Henry and Katherine Cripps at their recently opened restaurant in the village.

This is Henry's second restaurant in the area - The Greene Oak in Oak Green has been a great success, now he has brought the same concept to Cookham. The decor, which was designed by Katherine, is very similar in style to the Berkshire restaurant with soft muted creams, beige and taupe giving an airy, relaxed and comfortable feel to the place, But it is Henry's sheer enthusiasm for good food and making sure his customers are happy that makes going to The White Oak a really pleasant experience. Unlike so many restaurants today, where the manager is nowhere to be seen, Henry was there waiting tables, clearing plates and talking to the customers.

"That's the part I enjoy," he enthused as he stopped for a moment to chat to me. And even though he has been there from early in the morning, he didn't show any signs of tiring.

The menu doesn't try to be extravagant but good stable dishes with an interesting twist.

I did enjoy the butternut squash and rosemary tart with spinach for my starter. It was beautifully presented in the shape of flower and it seemed a shame to cut into it. Henry told me the chef used two butternut squashes, cooked for different times, and one was made into the puree. The light pastry meant that it wasn't too filling. My husband had Cornish crab on toast with rocket. A dish that was so simple, but because the crab was so fresh, it just needed a squeeze of a lemon.

For the main meal, I had pan fried skate wing with crayfish and baby spinach which was served with risotto - this was a delicious combination. Apparently, Henry gets the fish direct from the fishing boats in Cornwall, along with some top restaurants in the area, and so the fish tastes really fresh. My husband went for a traditional roasted English saddle and comfit breast of lamb with mash, green beans and rosemary jus. It is no wonder he raved about the lamb - it had been slow roasted for 13 hours, so it just melted in the mouth.

We could not leave without having desserts, and the fine apple tart with Calvados Chantilly and vanilla creme brulee and shortbread was just the perfect finish to a really lovely meal.

The White Oak The Pound Cookham, Maidenhead, Telephone: 01628 523043 An average meal excluding the wine costs approximately £25 a head.